Orange growths on a rose. How to treat an infectious burn of roses (drugs). Methods of treatment and protection of roses from peronosporosis
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The most common rose diseases and treatments
INFECTIOUS BURN
Symptoms. Treatment
Reddish-black spots appear on the shoots, sometimes with a light brown dry area in the center of the burn. A crimson border is visible along the edge of the spot. These spots in the spring with poor ventilation quickly increase in size, ring the shoot, which dries up.
In order to avoid the spread of the disease, it is better to cut off the affected shoots. If the damage is small, and the shoot is very pitiful (for example, in a single-flowering rose), you can try to leave a branch, but watch it very carefully to prevent, for example, damage to the graft - after opening the roses and establishing warm weather, the spread of the disease quickly stops, and burn spots "freeze". Such branches can be pruned after flowering in summer. Such small spots can be tried and treated - cleaned with a sharp knife to healthy tissue and covered with Runnet.
POWDER DEW
Symptoms. Treatment.
The causative agent is the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa. Young leaves develop reddish-purple spots on young leaves, often the leaves are deformed. Buds, shoots, leaves are covered with powdery white bloom, the leaves curl and fall off. Varieties with coarser, leathery leaves sometimes exhibit mosaic coloring or wrinkling.
The most rapid development of the fungus and the germination of its spores (conidia) occur at 18-20C and humidity above 60%. Often, during the growing season, 2-3 outbreaks of the disease are observed, which is associated with suitable conditions or re-growth of shoots (powdery mildew affects mainly young tissues). Compliance with the correct agricultural technology - do not overfeed roses, plant in well-ventilated places. Prevention is desirable - roses are regularly sprayed with infusion of mullein or ash (these infusions destroy the threads of the mycelium). For treatment, in addition to the mullein solution, it can be sprayed with triazole-based fungicides (Topaz, Skor).
RUST
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phragmidium. Rust fungi have several stages of development, the symptoms of damage in which differ from each other. In late April-early May, yellow-orange tubercles of the spring (ecidial) stage of the fungus appear on the stems at the opening buds, on young green shoots, petioles and the upper side of the leaves. Dusty pustules form on the underside of the leaves, from where the spores of the fungus are carried to healthy plants.
As a result, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, young shoots bend and dry out. In July, the uredostage develops, which is characterized by the appearance of small rusty-brown pustules on the underside of the leaves. Yellow and reddish spots on the upper side of the leaf, growing, cover its entire area. The shoots thicken, deform and crack, which is accompanied by a mass of dusting spores. At the end of August-September, the pustules darken - a tel-tostage develops in them, in the form of which the fungus overwinters in the affected stems and fruits. The last two stages can significantly reduce the growing season of roses, which leads to a decrease in growth, premature drying of leaves, weakening of plants, and in severe cases, to their death. The development of the disease is favored by high humidity, especially during the initial growing season. Hot, dry weather inhibits the development of the disease.
Rust is difficult to treat. It is necessary to cut and burn all the affected parts of the plant - in no case put them in the compost! For prevention, before each flowering, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate extract and 0.3% solution of potassium nitrate until the leaves are completely wetted. For treatment, you can try alternate treatment with preparations containing mancozeb (Ridomil Gold, Profit) and penconazole (Topaz), as with black spot - but they are also more effective in early spring, as a preventive measure. With severe damage, plants are not subject to treatment. They are dug up and burned.
GRAY ROT
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Wintering shoots of bushes from the side of the upper cut rapidly turn brown from top to bottom and die. At high humidity, the shoots are covered with fluffy smoky gray mycelium. Areas of tissue become brown, and in wet weather become covered with a gray coating. Green shoots dry out completely, flower stems break. Sick buds do not bloom or give one-sided flowers. Densely double varieties are especially affected by gray rot.
The disease develops strongly with high humidity of air and soil, dense planting, lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. At the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to create conditions for maximum dryness near the plants, feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in a ratio of 2: 1 for the active substance, adding manganese microfertilizers.
BUDDING NOT OPENING
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Dark spots appear on the stems, the buds and flowers are covered with a dark gray bloom, the outer petals turn brown and dry, the flowers fall prematurely. First of all, rot attacks weakened plants, and most often with white and light pink flowers. Small brown spots (sores) appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
The disease progresses in rainy weather, especially among varieties with soft tender petals.
In order to avoid the appearance of rot on the flowers, roses are not watered by sprinkling, but during the rainy season they are fed with manganese-containing fertilizers, damaged flowers and buds are immediately removed, trying to prevent rotten petals from falling on the leaves. Unfortunately, a number of varieties are susceptible to such flower damage, and in rainy weather you will not be able to see them in all their glory. These are, for example, varieties Colette, Andre le Notre, Eden Rose, Sebastian Kneipp and others.
BACTERIAL CANCER
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens (Sm. et Town.) Conn. On the roots, root collar, stem bases, uneven tuberculate growths of various sizes appear.
At first they are soft and light, gradually darken and harden, and eventually rot. On own-rooted roses, growths often appear directly on the stems and grow rapidly. In plants affected by bacterial cancer, a weak growth of shoots is noted, and the bushes gradually dry out. Plants with growths in the area of the root collar are dug up and burned. Small growths can be removed with subsequent disinfection with a 1% solution of copper sulphate.
BLACK SPOT
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Marssonina rosae. In the second half of summer, black spots appear on the leaves, the lower leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off. With a strong defeat, only young unblown leaves remain on the roses. Prevention is desirable against this disease - spraying with infusions of mullein, horsetail. You can also use drugs that increase the plant's resistance to diseases (zircon, immunophycyte, El, Amulet). A very good recommendation was given on the Websada forum - for treatment, alternate spraying with preparations containing mancozeb (Profit, Ridomil Gold) and triazole (Topaz, Skor) is effective at intervals of a week (alternate no more than three times). Feedback on this treatment regimen is very positive.
DOWN POWDER (PERONOSPOROSIS)
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Pseudoperonospora sparsa. The bark of the shoots cracks, becomes covered with "sores". Small red-brown or purple spots of an angular shape (with straight sides of the spot) appear on young leaves, the leaf is gradually deformed. If the spot reaches the central vein of the leaf, it immediately falls off. Purple spots may also appear on shoots. On adult leaves, the leaf tissue becomes faded and soft in places, the color does not change, then this spot quickly becomes red-brown and dries, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the flowers and buds are deformed. From the inside, a barely noticeable grayish coating sometimes appears (it can often be seen only with a magnifying glass). The outer petals of the buds turn black and fall off. Bushes lag behind in growth. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and cool weather; in dry and hot times, the disease subsides.
Downy mildew is fairly easy to confuse with black spot. The difference is that with downy mildew, the plant usually loses leaves from top to bottom (with black spot - vice versa). At the same time, the fall is very fast, literally in a couple of days.
Affected shoots must be cut and burned (the fungus overwinters in young shoots). The causative agent in biology is close to phytophthora fungi, therefore drugs against phytophthora (Profit, Ridomil Gold) are also effective against downy mildew. As a preventive measure, plants are fed with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
Leaf cercosporosis (grayish spotting)
Symptoms. Treatment
The disease is caused by the fungus Cercospora rosiola Pass. Numerous rounded spots appear on the surface of the leaf, 1-5 mm in diameter, initially dirty brown, with a dark purple border. Later, the center of the spot turns gray, and the edging remains dark purple. Sporulation develops on the upper side of the necrotic tissue in the form of black dotted hemispherical pads. Leaves heavily affected by spotting turn yellow and fall off. The disease is easily confused with black spot, which is very similar. Treatment measures are the same as for black spot and downy mildew.
PHYLLOSTICTOISIS OF THE LEAVES
Symptoms. Treatment
The disease is caused by the fungus Phyllosticta rosae Desm. The spots on the leaves are rounded, scattered, dark brown with a wide purple-brown border. Over time, the center of the necrotic tissue becomes ash gray, but a wide purple border always remains. Another fungus, Phyllosticta rosarum Pass., is also often found, causing the formation of grayish-white spots with a wide crimson border.
In the center of necrotic spots, small dotted black fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of fungi are formed. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely. The infection persists in the fallen affected leaves. Treatment measures are the same as for black spot and downy mildew.
LEAF SPOT
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Coryneum confusum Bub.et Kab. The spots are brown, irregular in shape, growing, and covering the entire leaf, with or without a yellow or red border. Sporulation on the upper side of the leaves in the form of slightly submerged flat blackish rounded beds. The infection persists on the affected fallen leaves. Treatment measures are the same as for black spot and downy mildew.
Pestalotia roses
Symptoms. Treatment
The causative agent is the fungus Pestalotia rosae West. Brown spots appear on the leaves along the edges of the leaf blades, growing towards the middle. On the border of healthy and necrotic tissue, there is often a characteristic yellow stripe. Numerous grayish rounded sporulation pads develop from the upper sides of the spots. Affected leaves turn yellow prematurely and dry out. On young shoots, often in protected ground, depressed necrosis of a grayish-brown color appears, on which sporulation also develops in the form of grayish pads. The mycelium grows into the wood of the shoot, the necrosis deepens, becomes an ulcer. Shoots gradually dry up. The infection persists in plant debris and affected stems. Timely pruning of affected branches with ulcers, spraying plants along the bark before bud break with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (abiga peak). Collection and burning of affected leaves.
PURPLE SPOT
SymptomsTreatment
The causative agent is the fungus Sphaceloma rosarium (Pass.) Jenk. (=Phyllosticta rosarium Pass., Gloeosporium rosarium (Pass.) Grove.). On the upper side of the leaves, small multiple rounded purple, sometimes even black spots are formed, bordered by a wide crimson stripe. Later, the spots lighten in the center to grayish, but a narrow purple-brown border always remains. Small black fruiting bodies - pycnidia - form on the spots. On the underside of the leaf blade, the spots are brown, merging. Affected leaves fall off, flowers are underdeveloped. With a strong spread of the disease, dark brown spots with a white center appear on green shoots. Treatment measures are the same as for black spot.
Rose diseases are mainly found in the flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, the choice of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry, and how to deal with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.
Why do roses get sick
Anyone who loves roses should also know their diseases, as well as the causes of their occurrence. Flowers can get sick for various reasons, and basically all of them are associated with the carelessness of the gardener:
So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose neighbors in the flower bed, and also do not forget about regular feeding and pruning. If you had to deal with diseases of roses, then we have prepared their description and treatment below.
Did you know? Roses are not only a garden crop, they are also found in the wild, and some of them are able to show incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers, which has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.
Methods of dealing with infectious burns
Infectious burn appears on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can be reborn and completely kill the plant. The cause of this rosary problem is excessive accumulation of moisture under cover during winter, excess nitrogen fertilizer in the soil, and weakening of shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes rose blight can be transmitted from plant to plant through pruning shears.
The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly carry out its prevention:
- remove leaves and shoots that have infection lesions;
- before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of iron sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
- it is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature not higher than + 10 ° С;
- after removing the shelter from the bushes, they can also be treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
- while pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
- vegetative shoots, it is important to get rid of the affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden pitch.
How to remove rust from roses and why it appears
Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. He is able to spray his own spores, thereby affecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on rose bushes in the spring, as this disease leads to cracking of last year's shoots and pollen from them. Weak plants that lack nutrients and moisture are most susceptible to this disease. In some cases, the appearance of rust is caused by weather conditions.
In order to prevent the appearance of rust on roses and help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:
- Try to open rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so that they do not get tired.
- Affected and dead shoots must be cut and burned.
- To maintain the vital activity of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, adding 4 g per liter of water.
- In order not to bring the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting.
- If you cannot get rid of the rust on the plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flower bed.
![](https://i0.wp.com/agronomu.com/media/res/3/5/9/9/3599.ogs660.jpg)
Important! Roses require a lot of moisture to grow well, but they need to be watered rarely, but very plentifully.
Powdery mildew: removing powdery mildew from the leaves and stem of a plant
This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60%, and the temperature is in the range from 16 to 18 ° C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions, it is difficult to avoid its occurrence. Often, powdery mildew forms mold on roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects stems, leaves, buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant hurts, the more extensive the plaque spots become. Since powdery mildew often affects young shoots of plants, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom.
To cope with powdery mildew and prevent its recurrence, it is necessary to resort to such measures:
1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots, and burn the leaves that have fallen from them.
2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.
3. Spraying roses in the fall with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.
4. Spraying the bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 laundry or liquid soap per 9 liters of rainwater, into which another liter of water must be poured, in which 25-30 g of copper sulfate was previously dissolved).
5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate the growth of plants, as well as increase their "immunity" to the disease.
6. Fertilizing flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But in no case should you use nitrogen, as it will only aggravate the situation.
7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses especially strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.
8. In autumn and spring, the soil around the bushes should be fertilized with ash in a concentration of not more than 120 g per 1 m2. At the same time, it must be slightly covered with the top layer of soil. Infusion of ash diseased bushes can be sprayed (to do this, prepare a solution of 100 g of ash and 10 liters of water, which must stand for 5 days), which must be done every 7 days.
9. An infusion of mullein will also help fight the mycelium, which will need about 1 kg per 10 liters of water. Spraying should also be done once a week.
It is important to spray the bushes until the traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.
Important! Hilling roses is necessary not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, at the first thaw, the bushes will not begin to grow, but will continue to sleep until real heat arrives.
Leaf spot and its elimination
You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:
- it is important to immediately cut off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
- every autumn, digging of the soil is carried out, in which it is important to completely turn the layers of soil over to limit air access;
- the use of a special preparation for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.
How to deal with gray rot: a description of the disease
Gray rot is dangerous because, with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often affects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. The most susceptible to this disease are white and pink roses, which receive insufficient nutrition and moisture. Gray rot mycelium is quite resistant to temperature extremes, therefore it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring continues its reproduction with the help of spores.
This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, planting roses near which is not recommended. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. It is better to water roses in the morning or in the middle of the day, because after evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.
It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants in order to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, you can use a decoction of forest horsetail for spraying, and if the lesions have spread greatly through the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationol in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.
Bacterial cancer on roses
Rose bacterial canker is one of the most common problems gardeners have to deal with. This disease can affect not only the stems, but also the roots of the flower, which is why it is rarely possible to save it.
root cancer
This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which eventually begin to rot. This leads to the drying of the bush, as the growths prevent moisture from entering the shoots. The cause of root cancer in rose bushes is damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers in clay soils with a high nitrogen content.
If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to cut off all growths and dip the entire root system for 2-3 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate. After that, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.
However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant immediately.
The stem cancer of the rose needs immediate treatment, since its pathogen reacts stably even to severe winter frosts and can rage especially intensively in the spring. It can take up to 3 years for a plant to fully heal.
In the process of fighting stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly inspect the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the buds swell, the affected bushes must be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (to do this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).
For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:
copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquid - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;
Copper oxychloride (per 10 l - 40 g of the substance);
Topsina-M (per 10 liters of water - 20 g).
A plant weakened by cancer will also need additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer, it is useful to strengthen rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% bordeaux acid.
Cytosporosis and its treatment
A symptom of this disease is a cardinal structural change in the bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first becomes brown, and then begins to die. Also, over time, many inflamed tubercles appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to urinate.
Treatment of cytosporosis consists in treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux liquid. This treatment is important to carry out even before the blooming of the bushes. All affected areas of the plant must be cut and burned in a timely manner.
Did you know? Sometimes small rosebuds are not the result of a lack of care for flowers or their diseases, but a feature of the variety. So, in a variety of roses called "C", the size of a flowering bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.
Viral wilt
This disease is also quite common. It is characterized by the painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time they have a deformed appearance, the leaves are filiform in shape. Over time, the shoots and leaves become brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes; by the end of summer, such a bush usually dries up.
Fighting viral wilt is almost impossible. It is important to cut and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it will be right to dig it up and burn it completely. It should be understood that viral wilt can be transmitted from bush to bush through a pruner, which is important to disinfect when working in a rose garden.
Disease prevention
Preventive actions to prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes are important to carry out annually. In particular, the treatment of roses from fungus with the help of Bordeaux liquid should be carried out both in the fall, before sheltering the bushes from frost, and in the spring, even before they begin to grow. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare clean, nutritious soil that is free of fungi and other pathogens.
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Fungal (bacterial) diseases
At the heart of a fungal infection is a fungal spore. It grows rapidly and is easily transmitted from an infected plant to roses. If one or another sign of a fungal infection is found, treatment is immediately started so that the fungus does not spread further. The most common diseases are:
- Stem cancer. The disease occurs due to the defeat of the flower by a fungal infection, also called infectious burn. Infection occurs in spring or autumn. The fungus penetrates the stem through its microcracks and multiplies. The growth of the fungus will be provoked by fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, as well as rainy weather, lack of wind. Signs of stem canker infection are a grey-brown flower stem that develops cankers. Over time, black blotches form on the ulcers - pycnidia.
The most effective way to fight cancer is to clean the stem from ulcers with sandpaper or a knife. Places where the ulcers are cut off are treated with potassium permanganate or garden pitch. To prevent the fungus from spreading to the following bushes, the affected plant is sprayed with the HOM fungicide. For the prevention of cancer, a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid is used, which is evenly sprayed over all the bushes. The liquid will prevent the spread of fungus spores and protect the roses from infection.
- Rust. The disease occurs due to the spread of the Phragmidium fungus. The defeat occurs in the spring, most often in April. Spots of red (rusty) color appear on infected leaves. Then the whole leaf dries up and falls off. New young shoots twist into a tube, then crack and also fall off. Treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is sprayed over the entire height of the bush. Anti-rust preparations containing zinc and copper are effective against rust. Such substances include Topaz, Abiga-Peak, Bayleton.
![](https://i2.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/rzhavchina-1.jpg)
- Powdery mildew. One of the most common types of the disease. The fungus primarily affects young shoots, less often buds and leaves. The development of the disease proceeds well at warm temperatures and high humidity. Symptoms of the disease are manifested by the presence of dark red spots and drying of the leaf plate. Pustules form on the shoot - white pads, which contain fungal spores. For the treatment of powdery mildew, fungicides Fundazol, Topsin-M, Bayleton help. It is forbidden to feed the rose with nitrogen supplements during treatment. All infected shoots and bushes are cut and burned, the cut points are treated with hydrogen peroxide or garden pitch.
![](https://i2.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/muchnistaja-rosa.jpg)
- Gray rot. Roses are infected by infection from neighboring plants. The spreading fungus Botrytis cinerea is expressed by dark spots that form on the sprout. The leaves and petals of the flower may have a yellowish tint and then quickly wither. Over time, a gray coating with a fluffy layer appears on them. The growth of the fungus is provoked by high humidity and excessive watering of the soil. From gray rot, the use of fungicides such as Euparen or Fundazol helps. Infected shoots are immediately removed from the bush and burned. Dry leaves and branches are also pruned.
Viral diseases
The virus infects the rose instantly, quickly transmitted to neighboring shoots. The bush becomes infected with viral infections from neighboring plants. With timely and quick treatment, the infection can be defeated without sad consequences, and in advanced stages, the rose dies.
- Banding virus. Any plant can become an infective object. The infection is manifested by the formation of a burgundy-brown edging along the perimeter of the sheet. Then the leaf begins to turn black and dies. The main measure to combat striping is the pruning of affected leaves. The cut points are treated with potassium permanganate or peroxide.
![](https://i2.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/virus-polos.jpg)
- Virus wilting. The disease manifests itself in a special way: fox roses become elongated and narrow, and then turn brown and fall off. Bud formation is poor, and soon stops altogether. Gradually, all shoots become thinner and dry. First of all, after the detection of wilting, bad infected shoots are cut off and the cut is treated with garden pitch. The disease is difficult to treat, an effective solution to the problem is only pruning the bush. If a whole rose bush is infected, then it is dug up and burned so that the disease does not spread to healthy flowers.
![](https://i0.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/virus-uviad.jpg)
- Tobacco necrosis virus. The disease is transmitted with the juice contained in the shoots and zoospores. In the initial stage, the formation of spotting occurs on the leaves of the rose, and then there is an intense darkening of the leaf and its fall. Drugs from the group of insecticides, which are aimed at the destruction of insects, fight necrosis.
![](https://i1.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/5-63-4.jpg)
- mosaic virus. Mosaic is considered one of the most common diseases. If round necrotic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, this is the first sign of infection with the mosaic virus. The disease is transmitted through plant sap, the carrier may be a nematode. Mosaic is difficult to treat, therefore, infected shoots are pruned with their further burning.
Noncommunicable diseases
Most often, roses begin to "get sick" due to a lack of nutrients in the soil or due to an unfavorable climate. This has nothing to do with the defeat of the bush with fungal or viral diseases. The lack of nutrients in the soil manifests itself in different ways. It could be:
- rapid bud fading. May be caused by a lack of potassium, magnesium or manganese in the earth;
- poor bud formation. Most often occurs when there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil;
- yellowing of leaves. The reason may be an excess of nitrogen in the earth or a lack of iron;
- leaf fall. The lack of magnesium makes the leaves less durable, they fall off quickly.
To establish a specific cause, the rose must be observed for several days. Then you need to make the necessary top dressing. Sometimes the use of organic fertilizers based on mullein, chicken manure or peat helps to improve the situation. The introduction of complex liquid additives with a rich elemental composition has a good effect on roses.
Important! All additives are pre-diluted with water in accordance with the instructions for use of the drug.
Folk remedies for treatment
Old and proven methods are still popular because they work effectively and do not harm the rose. A great success in the fight against powdery mildew is a mixture of ash and rotted mullein. On a bucket of water take 1 kilogram of manure and a glass of ash. The mixture is insisted for a week, and then the whole plant is pollinated with a solution. Pollination is carried out in the morning 1-2 times a week.
Ordinary laundry soap can help get rid of fungal spores. The infected areas are lathered with foamed sponge soap and left to soak for 2-3 hours. Then, with clean water, wash off the soap from the surface of the leaves and trunk. Soap is not applied to the buds. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days.
![](https://i1.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/kak-smyt-pobelku-s-potolka-5.jpg)
Onions and garlic will help against insects and bacterial infections. 3 heads of onion or 2-3 heads of garlic are crushed in a blender, and then transferred to a saucepan and poured with 3-4 liters of water. Keep the infusion at room temperature for 5-7 days, filter. Spray the solution on the leaves and stem 2 times a week for a month.
Disease prevention
In order not to have to deal with diseases, and even more so with their treatment, roses must be treated for prevention purposes. Prevention from diseases is carried out in the spring - this is the most vulnerable time for infection. An excellent remedy for this purpose is copper sulphate. Its 3% diluted solution is sprayed over the bush when the rose buds are still closed. Bordeaux liquid has a similar effect.
Mullein and ash have a preventive effect. Their liquid mixture is applied to the leaves and stem of a rose in the first half of summer. Preparations Zircon, Euparen, Tilt, Bayleton can also be used to prevent the formation of fungal and viral infections, they do not harm the flower and are normally tolerated.
![](https://i0.wp.com/sveklon.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Rastvor-cirkona-dlja-zamachivanija-semjan0.jpg)
Attention! The optimal time for processing roses is mid-April - the end of May. When processing drugs, it is better to refuse fertilizers.
With the implementation of timely prevention, roses will never have to be treated. Of course, there are times when the flower withers and sheds leaves, but in most cases this is caused by a lack of vitamins. To fix the problem, it is enough to choose the right additive, and the rose will continue to grow actively and delight with an attractive appearance.
The queen of flowers, the rose, is undoubtedly the beauty of any flower bed. A variety of varieties of roses today provides an opportunity to create beautiful compositions with these flowers. They are planted in separate rose gardens or among other flowers, in any case they are very beautiful. But this beauty requires considerable sacrifice. The procedure for breeding roses is quite difficult. This flower is demanding, delicate, it must be protected from the external environment. Unfortunately, roses suffer not only from bad weather or pests. Quite often they get sick. What diseases of roses exist, how to deal with them, or how to prevent them at all? This will be discussed in our article.
Description of diseases with photos and videos
Rust is a disease of early spring
It is in those years when spring is warm and rainy that roses most often suffer from rust. The problem manifests itself even during the period when the plants bloom. The spores appear as a dusty orange mass. It can be observed near the leaves, also in the region of the root collar.
In summer, the disease is visible on the back of the leaves. There are peculiar red-colored pads. The appearance of these sporulations negatively affects the whole plant. Its functions and abilities are violated: photosynthesis, metabolism. When the disease develops, the plant loses its decorative appearance. Leaves, flowers and buds begin to be oppressed, deformed.
How to prevent
It is important to follow three main rules. Firstly, it is necessary to thin out the bushes, removing dried branches, flowers, every year during the end of summer. Secondly, with the onset of autumn, it is important to treat the plants with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate (3%). And, thirdly, roses must be sprayed according to the instructions with chemicals that stimulate plant immunity. Suitable, for example, "Zircon", "Immunocytophyte", etc.
How to eliminate
The fight against this disease includes the following measures:
- Affected shoots must be cut;
- The leaves are collected and necessarily burned;
- The soil is dug up;
- Processing with a copper-soap solution during the growing season.
Folk remedies
You can try to remove rust with this tool. Mixed 1 tbsp. l. soda, 1 tsp. means for washing dishes, 1 tbsp. l. vegetable oil, as well as 1 gallon of water and 1 aspirin tablet dissolved in water. Plants should be sprayed with a mixture of these ingredients once every about 1-2 weeks.
Rust is the most terrible disease of roses: video
Black spot - a disease of summer rains
![](https://i2.wp.com/belochka77.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/800px-Black_spot.jpg)
Most of all, this problem spreads in those regions where frequent precipitation is observed in the second half of summer. At first, only small dark spots appear. Until the end of July, they can already become large, sporulation is formed on them. Further, the leaves begin to fall off, first the upper ones, and then lower and lower. When the disease spreads strongly, the leaves darken completely. They begin to dry up, and then completely disappear.
The spores and mycelium of this pathogen tolerate winter well, being on the leaves and shoots of the plant.
How to prevent
Every autumn it is necessary to spray all the bushes with copper sulfate 3%. This procedure must be performed before shelter for the winter. The prevention system includes the same measures that are taken to combat the disease.
Control measures
They include the destruction of all diseased parts of the plant. The leaves are collected and burned, as are the shoots. Digging also needs to be done, preferably with a reservoir turnover. Of the finished preparations, Kaptan, Fundazol, Topaz, Skor are suitable for processing.
How people fight
It should be noted right away that most likely it will not work to cure a rose from black spot with the help of folk remedies alone. This has long been verified by many gardeners. But for prevention, they are great.
You can spray the plant with a solution of water and iodine. The latter needs to be taken 1 ml, which is enough for 400 ml of liquid. Another way is to water with a solution of mullein. It is diluted approximately 1 to 10, after which it is left to infuse for several days. Such watering is allowed in the period from the removal of winter shelter and before the buds open.
You can process the whole plant with a decoction of garlic and onion husks. Approximately 30-40 g of these wastes are poured with water and boiled. After that, the solution should be infused for at least 6 hours.
Black spot - the scourge of all gardeners: video
![](https://i0.wp.com/belochka77.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/355.jpg)
This disease is familiar to all gardeners and gardeners. The fact is that it affects not only flowers, but also a very large number of diverse cultures.
Already from the name itself, it can be understood that the external sign of this disease is the presence of a substance that resembles a powder. Its color can be gray, white. Almost the entire upper part of the plant is affected by this disease.
Preventive measures
They include several main tasks:
- Rose bushes should not be allowed to thicken. It is very important to thin out the plants.
- It is necessary to apply nitrogenous fertilizers strictly according to the calendar. If the soil is oversaturated with them, especially after midsummer, this will lead to disease.
- It is necessary to use fungicides even during the formation of flower buds. Such drugs are suitable for this: Fundazol, Bayleton, etc.
- It is necessary to make potassium sulfate with the beginning of the second half of summer.
How to overcome
The simplest, but most important, activities will be useful - pruning all shoots that are affected by the disease, as well as collecting leaves and destroying them in a fire. The soil is dug up only with the turnover of the reservoir. So the pathogens will suffer from a lack of air and may die. During the period of awakening the bush or falling asleep, it is treated with copper sulphate or potassium sulfate with copper sulphate. Spraying is also carried out with such means as colloidal sulfur (1% suspension), or soda ash (50 g of the substance per 10 l of water).
Folk methods
There are many ways to deal with this problem as it is very common. One of the proven methods is the zonal solution. It is prepared from 1 kg of sifted ash and 10 liters of water. The liquid should be warm. It is necessary to insist the agent for at least 3 days, stirring every 20-25 hours.
Peronosporosis - a disease of bad weather
Experts note that hybrid tea varieties of rose bushes most often suffer from this disease. Plants that are located in the shade usually suffer, while with poor ventilation around the air. As a rule, the problem manifests itself during a period when the humidity is high and the temperature drops sharply.
These are the symptoms of the disease. Initially, spots of an incomprehensible shape appear. They are purple or red. When the disease develops, the leaves wither, weaken. Then they curl up and eventually just die. The stems suffer from cracks, the buds also begin to die and darken.
If you look at the sheet through a magnifying glass, then on the reverse side you can see a raid in the form of a web.
How to prevent
Downy mildew or downy mildew can be prevented. It is necessary to regularly remove weeds, as well as destroy fallen leaves. This also applies to shoots, whole plants that have suffered.
Digging with the turnover of the reservoir every autumn is required. Nitrogen fertilizers should be treated with care and applied sparingly. It is necessary to monitor the soil, ventilation and temperature conditions well. It is important to ensure that water does not fall on the leaves during watering.
How to eliminate the disease in the people
Bushes have long been treated against downy mildew with decoctions of horsetail, garlic husks, solutions of ash, iodine and milk. The last remedy is prepared as follows: 1 liter of milk (skimmed) and no more than 10 drops of iodine (5%) are added to 9 liters of water.
A decoction of horsetail is prepared as follows. It is necessary to prepare 1 kg of a fresh plant or 150 g of a dried one. At night, the raw materials must be soaked in 10 liters of water. After that, the infusion should boil and cook for about 30 minutes. After cooling, the substance must be filtered and diluted in a ratio of 1 to 5.
Anthracnose - a cold spring problem
![](https://i0.wp.com/belochka77.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/19-1.jpg)
Although this disease is quite common, it is not yet fully understood. The first symptoms are small dark spots. They can be confusing, the problem can be confused with black spot. But over time, the spots change. They turn red, purple or brown. Their center is usually lighter, sometimes a hole forms in it.
Prevention
Mandatory event - pruning. All affected areas, including stems, leaves, are subject to it. Then all waste must be burned, which will help to avoid the spread of the fungus.
Every autumn it is necessary to clean the bushes and the area around them. This will prevent re-infection.
How to fix the problem
When traces of anthracnose are already noticed on rose bushes, it is urgent to apply microbiological preparations. Gamair or Fitosporin-M are excellent. In autumn, you can treat rose bushes with such preparations as Ridomil, Fundazol, etc. It is advisable to alternate them, otherwise the plants become addictive.
Infectious burn - the problem of wounded flowers
![](https://i2.wp.com/belochka77.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Koniotirioz-rozyi.jpg)
A rose bush can become infected with this disease during the dormant period - in autumn or spring. For example, if there is no proper care, then the spores of the fungus enter the stems through cracks that have appeared due to severe frosts. Another way of infection is wounds that are formed during improper pruning or processing after it. Weather conditions also contribute to infection - lack of wind, too high humidity. Also, late fertilization with nitrogenous substances can lead to a deterioration in the condition.
This disease is also called stem cancer. It manifests itself in the form of dark cankers on the stems, which lead to the death of the shoots. Over time, black dots can also be seen on the ulcers, which help the disease to spread.
Prevention of infectious burn
- First, in no case should plants be allowed to freeze. This provokes the appearance of cracks through which infection occurs.
- Secondly, shelter must be carried out in a timely manner and in the right conditions. The temperature should not exceed 10 0 C, and the humidity should be moderate.
- It is important to treat the soil before shelter with special means: Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper sulfate (3%).
- Every time before pruning roses, it is very important to disinfect the tools.
- Spraying with potash fertilizers from the beginning of the second half of summer.
How to treat
All shoots that are already damaged by the disease must be removed. But it is important not to damage the ulcers. Small wounds should be cleaned with a sharp knife, for example, for paper, to healthy flesh. Then they are covered with garden pitch. Every week, diseased bushes must be treated with the HOM fungicide.
Infectious burn after winter on roses: video
There is a problem in conditions such as too dense planting, cold air and high humidity, as well as improper use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The main symptom of this disease is gray spots. They can be seen on all parts of the bush: leaves, flowers, stems and even buds. With the development of the disease, these spots turn yellow, rotten areas appear, they begin to die.
How to carry out prevention
Precautions include constantly loosening the soil. It is also important to mulch. It is also necessary to apply those fertilizers that prevent the reproduction of fungi. These include manganese-containing preparations. They enhance oxidative processes inside the plant.
Treatment
It depends on what stage of development the disease is at. If it is just starting, then you need to take the following steps:
- All diseased parts, shoots must be destroyed;
- Plants need to provide dry living conditions.
If the plant has already been badly damaged, then special substances cannot be dispensed with. It is necessary to spray roses with a solution of "Fundazol" (0.2%). There is another measure - the most extreme. Every two weeks, the bushes should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%).
Folk ways
This disease is often difficult to overcome with light decoctions or infusions. But, like other fungal diseases, gray rot can be tried to prevent or eliminate with a decoction of horsetail.
Gray and root rot: video
A rose is a plant, though prickly, but very tender. It lends itself to various diseases, but you should not refuse to grow this crop because of this. You just need to know what and how to do in order to overcome the disease. Then in your garden there will be incomparable, beautiful queens of flowers.