Swede stove masonry. How to make a Swedish oven with an oven and a stove with your own hands: step by step instructions. Preparatory work before assembling the oven
The emergence of modern models of heating equipment has significantly improved the comfort of the home. It would seem that such structures as stoves should go into oblivion, remain only in museums, but in people's memory. But the reverse situation is observed.
Owners of country houses are increasingly showing interest in them, the desire to build a stove in their home. There are several reasons for this phenomenon. First, in recent years, more and more people are thinking about the environmental safety of housing.
It is no secret that it is the brick oven that ideally meets such requirements, thanks to the natural materials of the construction of the ideal ventilation of the room that it provides. Secondly, a quality building is an economical source of heat. Thirdly, the oven is a real gift for a gourmet. The most popular oven now is the Swede, which has a lot of undeniable advantages.
Features of the Swede oven
According to historical data, this design came to Russia thanks to the Swedes, who were taken prisoner near Poltava by the troops of Peter I. Since then, the stove has been modified, replenished with new elements, but its main advantages have been preserved.
Main benefits Swedes are:
- compactness
- high efficiency
Medium sized construction occupies only one square meter and at the same time it is capable of heating a house of 30 m 2, provided that the stove is located in two rooms. The firebox is located in the kitchen, and the back wall heats the living room or bedroom.
Such efficiency and economy is ensured by a complex system of chimneys, allowing efficient use of heat. An important advantage of this stove is the ability to simultaneously create two or three types of firebox: winter, summer and autumn. Each has its own smoke path, which allows in the summer cook without raising the temperature in the house. This system simultaneously keeps the stove in working condition all the time, eliminating the smoke that owners of conventional structures have to face at the beginning of the heating season.
Furnace modifications
There are several modifications of the Swede oven, expanding its functional range and adding aesthetic appeal to the house.
The simplest option is cooking and heating furnace. In addition to the firebox, it has a cast-iron hob, and an oven is often built in. The hood above the stove provides excellent ventilation, as hot air with fumes from food enters the chimney. It is possible to equip the hob with glass doors, which improves the appearance, in addition protects the room from the penetration of food odors.
In such furnaces, a small niche is usually equipped above the stove. it perfect place to dry berries, fruits and mushrooms or shoes, mittens. When choosing a stove project, you can determine the optimal size of the furnace, the height and size of the niche for the hob.
One of the advantages of stoves is their ability to provide effective treatment for colds. It is enough to sleep on warm bricks, and the disease will take off as if by hand.
This procedure will also be beneficial for joint diseases, lumbar pain. Admirers of such a healing method can choose a Swede stove with a stove bench for their home. It will also have hob and drying niche. G. Reznik developed such an option. The perimeter of the base of this furnace is 4.5 × 3 bricks, and the stove bench is 7 × 2.5 bricks. At the same time, a house with an area of up to 35 m 2 is qualitatively heated. There are two firing modes: winter and summer.
A wonderful option for a country modern house is Swede stove with fireplace. This design is installed on the border of the kitchen and living room. At the same time, the kitchen will complete oven with hob, oven and drying niche, and the living room will be decorated with a stylish fireplace, which will simultaneously heat, give the interior extraordinary comfort and serve as a place of rest and relaxation, which provides watching the fire. The stove and fireplace have a single chimney, so no additional elements are required.
Modern stoves not only do an excellent job of heating, but are also home decoration. For this, special materials are used:
- figured brick
- arched vaults
- tiling, tiles.
Putting together such a structure is not easy. In order for the Swede oven to work flawlessly, to perform its functions efficiently, precise step-by-step masonry and use are required. quality material.
Swede with a fireplace - masonry instructions
First, the foundation is laid out in the form of a square with a side of 110 cm. Its upper surface should be one brick below the floor.
First row oven solid. The 2nd row is the same, but a grate is installed at the location of the fireplace. In the 3rd row, an ash chamber is formed and its door is fixed, and a vertical channel and a place for the oven are also equipped.
2 doors for cleaning are installed, and a fireplace firebox is laid out. 4th row is the same. In the 5th row is created a place to install a grate.
In the 6th row, the passage between the vertical channel and the oven is blocked, the firebox door is installed. It is important to take into account that between the firebox and the oven, the bricks are placed on edge, and the surface of the brick of the 7th row coincided with the plane of the 8th row.
In the 7th row, two strips of metal are laid above the firebox. 8th, 9th row are the same. On the 9th row, 2 strips of steel are laid above the oven.
In the 10th row is equipped a place for cleaning the fireplace and for installing a hob. A stove is installed, a corner made of steel, the space to the right of the hob is not closed. In the 11th row, a cooking niche is formed, the hole is closed. In the 12th row, obliquely cut bricks are laid in the front wall of the fireplace. 13th row is the same. In the 14th row, to create a mantelpiece, the bricks are extended 25 cm along the perimeter of the shelf. On the 15th row, the bricks in the mantel are extended another 25 mm. In the 16th row, the laying out of the cooking niche is completed by laying three metal strips. The 17th and 18th row are the same. In the 19th row, chimneys are formed. Bricks cut obliquely from both sides are laid between the vertical and chimney channels.
The 21st, 22nd and 23rd rows are similar, they are equipped with doors for cleaning channels. The partition between the vertical and chimney channels gradually shifts to the left. The fireplace valve is installed in the 24th row, and the stove valve in the 25th. The vertical channel with the chimney is connected in the 26th row, and a cleaning door is installed. In the 27th row, the longitudinal sides of the channel above the fireplace are laid out cut obliquely bricks. 28th row is the same. The 29th row is solid with a chimney hole. The 30th is the same, but the hole is reduced, and the bricks are pushed out by 3 cm from all sides. In the 31st row, a common valve is installed. From the 32nd row, pipe laying begins.
The brick for the oven must be high quality, no cracks or chips. Before laying it must be soaked.
Video footage
In the video you can see the implementation of the masonry technology described above.
The heating of the house should always be such that the rooms warm up quickly, and at the same time the costs are minimal. It is possible to organize such heating thanks to the construction of a Swede-type furnace. was developed by the Swedes in 1767. Swedish specialists have created such heating furnace, which heats up quickly and burns little wood at the same time. These qualities were needed to combat severe frosts, complemented by high levels of humidity. If such climatic conditions are observed at the location of a summer house or a residential building, then it makes sense to build this energy efficient design.
Peculiarities
Has a complex structure. Its features are:
- an oven located next to the firebox;
- a considerable number of camera caps;
- complex system of channels.
The space in which it is metal oven, connected to the firebox. The design is such that there is a brick wall between the firebox and the oven. However, at the top of this wall there is a channel for the passage hot air. Thanks to this trick, the oven is heated by the heat created in the furnace, and the flame does not have contact with the iron. It is enough to open the oven door, as warm air will rush into the room.
Dome cameras greatly increase the heat transfer of carbon monoxide. These cameras have two channels. Both are located below. Smoke enters one by one, exits by the second. The principle of operation of the chamber is as follows: hot air rises and, heating the upper part of the hood, it becomes colder. Next he exits the cell and gets into others. As a result, heat transfer becomes maximum and the heating stove in the country house or in the house becomes very hot.
Channel system very tricky and, therefore, complex. It allows you to control the movement of carbon monoxide into different chamber-hoods. At the same time, you can make sure that they do not fall into some cameras. That is, you can control the operating modes of the furnace and determine its heating level. Most Swedish models operate in three modes: summer, autumn and winter. Switching between the three modes is due to dampers. Features of the operation of the heating furnace in each mode can be seen in different videos.
Kinds
Over the years of its existence, the “Swede” has received many changes. Today it is represented by a large number of models that can be combined into three groups:
- Swede with a fireplace.
Read also: Finnish oven for home
The first has the simplest design. Some options don't even have an oven. The classic model of such an oven provides for an oven and niches for drying clothes. Sometimes it is supplemented with a tank for heating water. One of the members of this group is Buslaev oven.
Fireplace models are fuel and cooking furnaces with attached fireplace. It is located on the opposite side of the firebox. Such an oven is often placed between two rooms. One of them is a kitchen, the second is a living room or living room. The part with the firebox and hob is placed in the kitchen, the fireplace is in another room.
The most complex in design is “ Swede", the structure of which provides for the presence of a couch. She is often talked about in videos. Under the stove bench, additional caps are always made through which hot air passes. A feature of the bed is a small area. Usually its dimensions are 180x60 cm.
Any of the models of such a furnace is complex and without a diagram in which the detailed order is indicated, it is almost impossible to draw up a design.
Preparing for the construction of the furnace
A Swede type oven is always needed. It has a considerable weight, and therefore its installation on the floor is a big mistake. He always leads to the repair of the furnace. Foundation for a furnace with a stove bench should be separate from the foundation of the house, because the shrinkage of one of them should not affect the design of the furnace and should not cause unforeseen repairs. The foundation is poured to a depth greater than the freezing of the soil. It is better to fill it at the stage of building a house. If the construction of the cottage is completed, and the floor is in its place, then you need to make a hole in it, which in size is 10-15 see more than the dimensions of the future heating furnace.
Further dig a pit, prepare the basis for the foundation and pour it. The features of this procedure can be studied in different videos. Always put on a ready foundation. They can be basalt cardboard. Thermal insulation should consist of three layers. Two of them are made from basalt cardboard, one is medium, from a foil sheet. Thermal insulation thickness should be 15 mm.
Read also: Long burning furnaces with water circuit
After that, you can buy the necessary materials and start laying the furnace with three modes according to the drawings of K. Ya. Buslaev.
materials
The list of necessary materials for the heating furnace work consists of:
- 1 furnace door, 21x25 cm;
- 1 blower door, 14x25 cm;
- 3 cleaning doors, 12x12 cm;
- 550 red bricks;
- 1 oven, 45x25x29 cm;
- 1 grate 20x30 cm;
- 1 gate valve 25x13 cm;
- 1 cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm;
- 1 valve from the hood 13x13 cm;
- 30 fireclay bricks SHA-8;
- 1 corner of steel 45x45x700 mm.;
- 1 corner of steel 45x45x905 mm.;
- 2 strips of steel 50x5x650 mm.;
- 1 drying shelves 190x340 mm;
- 1 sheet for drying chambers 800x905 mm;
- 1 sheet of pre-furnace 500x700 mm.
When choosing materials, you need to pay attention to some nuances. The first concerns the wall thickness of the oven. If it is small, then the walls will quickly burn out and unexpected repairs will come. If too thick, then heat dissipation and heating will occur slowly. The result is underburning, soot deposition and deterioration in efficiency. The same requirements apply to the hob. It is best when it is cast from cast iron or special steel.
The weak point of any Swedish oven is furnace door. Due to the very high temperature in the firebox, the door quickly loosens and in some cases falls out. A standard stamping product from a sheet is not suitable. To avoid premature repairs, experts recommend opting for cast door. It should have a mustache that is embedded in the masonry.
If there is no choice, and you have to buy a stamping door, then you need to strengthen its design four pieces of annealed wire. The diameter of the material should be 3-4 mm. Length up to 70 mm. The wire is welded to the frame of the door. The formed mustache must be parted to the sides and embedded in the masonry. This will save you from unwanted repairs soon.
Among the many ways to provide heat in a country house, a heating-cooking type stove or a Swedish order stand out separately. Indeed, a do-it-yourself Swede stove with a fireplace is quite affordable and real. By the way, in order to build it yourself, it is not at all necessary to have the qualifications of a professional stove-setter - here there is a need only for basic skills.
Swede stoves for home
For heating a small house, the best option would be the so-called heating and cooking stove. Usually it is a Swedish oven. As part of her order, a fireplace is installed. In addition, certain rules must be followed.
It is not at all difficult to assemble such a structure on your own, you just need to know the basic ordering rules that will help to assemble a safe structure even for a beginner with your own hands.
The main advantage of the Swedish stove is the combination of its structure. That is, it is suitable not only for cooking, but also for heating small rooms. If desired, you can add other functions to such a structure, such as a niche for storing food or an oven. In addition, it may contain a stove bench or other Swede oven designs.
Swedish brick oven detailed diagram
One way or another, you can assemble a Swede oven with your own hands only from high-quality materials with high quality. Only in this case, you can count on its long, and, most importantly, safe operation. Swede brick oven, see photo accommodation options in the house.
Do-it-yourself stove laying - Swede ordering
Traditionally, a Swede's oven is assembled from ceramic red brick with her own hands, and the used material is categorically not suitable here. But the fireclay brick is suitable for the firebox.
In addition, even before starting work, you will have to prepare such basic elements of the furnace as:
- blew,
- oven,
- furnace design,
- grates and gate valves,
- cleaning doors,
- as well as steel strip.
Moreover, the amount of materials necessary for work for each specific case will be determined by the dimensions and the option of ordering the furnace.
It is important to note that the Swede oven with their own hands is placed only on a pre-prepared foundation. Moreover, at this stage, the work does not differ from the construction of other heating or heating and cooking structures.
Swede stove masonry
In any case, the foundation should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the future furnace. For it, concrete is used, which is poured in layers between broken bricks and rubble. After pouring the last layer, a waterproofing layer is necessarily laid. Only after that it is possible to start laying the ordering bricks, see the drawings and diagrams.
The technology of building a Swede brick oven
Do-it-yourself Swedish stove masonry has a number of features that must certainly be taken into account in the work. It must immediately be said about the need not only for waterproofing, but also for thermal insulation of its foundation, otherwise, during operation, the stove will heat the floor.
Balsat cardboard can be used here, and when it is laid in three layers, the foil sheet should be in the middle.
Dimensions and drawings of the Swede stove
After the foundation, they proceed to work on the foot of the future furnace, laying out its first and second rows. To provide a kind of protrusion-pedestal, they are laid out exclusively with expanded seams, within 13 mm.
They also do not need to be made too wide. Experts advise when laying the Swede's stove to rinse each of the bricks in clean water for several seconds. This simple manipulation will increase adhesion by getting rid of dust on the surface of the material.
kiln masonry swedish ordering
The fact is that in practice, masonry, which is made of dusty and dry bricks, may not be strong enough, in conditions of significant thermal stress.
But long-term soaking of bricks before work is also not permissible, because in this case it will simply be saturated with water, which it will later transfer to the solution. This will also have its negative consequences.
In the case of a Swede oven, a strong heat removal through the oven is assumed against the background of efficient fuel use. Therefore, for its masonry, only high-quality fireclay bricks are taken, as well as high-quality mortar on marl.
Usually it is from fireclay that it is recommended to lay out the Swede stove with your own hands from the third row and up to the one that will follow the stove. But in some cases, in order to save money, it is taken only for the inner lining of the firebox, which will require no more than a hundred bricks.
Masonry furnace ordering
During laying, special attention will have to be paid to the strength and evenness of the surface. So, there should not be excess mortar or voids in the seams, and all channels from the inside should be perfectly smooth. Bandaged in this case in half a brick.
Special attention when laying the Swede's stove with their own hands is given to the cross section of the smoke channel. It should remain unchanged throughout the laying of the furnace. Otherwise, even with minimal constriction, flue gases may escape into the room.
When the first row is ready, you can put the blower door. Further work will be carried out on the basis of the chosen order. To form the internal space of the main elements of the furnace, including the blower, the bricks used for them are somewhat hemmed. Already on the next row, the doors can be closed.
Swedish heating stoves
Swede oven drawings
Swede oven
Many of us often wondered why, when equipping modern houses with various types of heating equipment, stoves are increasingly being installed in houses? Apparently because the stove is a work of art, and a way to heat your home, and an important aesthetic detail of your home, not to mention the fact that the stove will cook dinner and dry the laundry.
Today we will consider a variant of the stove, which is popularly called the "Swede". Some people said that the name of this stove was given during the Battle of Poltava by the Swedes captured by Russian troops. But the facts show that the history of the emergence of this furnace goes back to the middle of the 18th century, and the initiator of its creation was the Swedish king himself, who attracted the best minds of his country, including mathematicians and physicists, to work.
And these learned people calculated so accurately that the "Swede" still lives and prospers, and in popularity is only slightly inferior to the world-famous one. Moreover, if we compare them, then the advantage of the "Swede" will be undeniable in the compactness of the structure, and in terms of efficiency it will be inferior very slightly.
Why did the Swedes take up the development of the stove? After all, it already existed and was popular? The fact is that the climate in Sweden is somewhat harsher than that of their neighbors, and the forests had already thinned out quite a bit by that time. There was no place for the construction of large houses, so a stove with small dimensions and dimensions with high efficiency was needed.
Furnace design features
The Russian stove took up too much space and took a very long time to heat up. Another feature of the Swedish oven was the use of the first heat: the gases from the combustion of the fuel were directed downward, warming the room from below, and the installed metal oven, quickly heating up, completed the heating process in a short time.
Swede oven
A special niche was installed above the firebox of the stove, where the prepared food was stored so that it would not cool down for a long time, so that any Swedish fisherman and hunter, returning with prey, could always taste the warm food prepared the day before by a caring hostess.
And a niche for drying clothes made it possible to quickly dry a wet hunting and fishing suit and prepare for new campaigns. Some of the shortcomings of the "Swede" included the fact that the vertical channels unevenly distributed heat in the room, but less soot accumulated in them, and the stove had to be cleaned less often.
Wealthy owners could afford the installation of horizontal channels, the stove warmed up the house better, but was noticeably more often cleaned. The stove was designed in such a way that, despite its small size, it heated the entire room due to proper installation in the house.
Part of the stove with a firebox and an oven was located in the kitchen, and the back side went into the living room, it was finished with tiles, decorated with various types of additions. In this part of the stove there was a stove bench or even a whole bed raised above the floor, a fireplace was installed, etc.
The Swedish oven has a very high level of heat transfer. If we compare it in terms of these parameters with the Dutch stove, then with a smaller number of fireboxes per day, the power of the “Swede” turned out to be a third higher.
The level of heat transfer of the Russian stove is higher, but, as already mentioned, it takes a long time to “fire up and cools down relatively quickly. Unlike the Russian beauty, the “Swede” cannot be assembled from trash and waste, all building materials must be of high quality, which is why the “Swede” is considered the most fastidious of.
The Swedish stove is well suited for building a small area of 30-50 sq.m. It would be ideal if it was located in the center of the house. The length of the stove is about 130 cm, the width is about 1 meter, the height corresponds to the height of the house if the stove is installed up to the ceiling. The small cost of usable space (for comparison, the length of the Russian stove is up to 4 meters) makes the Swede popular today.
The use of the Swedish oven
The Swedish oven always performs at least 2 functions:
— heating
- cooking
The size of the furnace is 35-50 cm, the size of the plate is 41-71 cm. If, for example, you want to change the dimensions of the furnace, then you will have to recalculate all other parameters of the furnace. It is not for nothing that the best mathematicians of the past calculated their offspring with scrupulous accuracy.
Before choosing a specific stove model, think about what function it will have as the main one, a lot depends on it. If, for example, your stove will only be a heating and cooking facility, then it can be placed in the kitchen and made small.
If the task of heating the whole house is supposed, then choose a place from where the heat will be freely distributed throughout the house. Whichever furnace model you prefer, work begins with the construction of a foundation for the dimensions of the furnace.
How to assemble a Swedish oven with your own hands
The best, almost ideal option, when the foundation of the furnace is laid at the stage of building a house, but this rarely happens, so we will consider the option of installing a foundation for a Swedish stove when the house is already built.
The main condition here is the separation of the foundation of the furnace from the base of the house. First, the markup is made, then, according to that markup, a detail of the desired size is cut out on the floor covering and digging recesses to the ground. Please note that the cut out part of the floor should be 10-15 cm larger than the calculated parameters of the furnace base.
Next, a pit breaks through, the bottom of which is covered with a mixture of sand and water, the width of the sand layer is 10-20 cm. The surface is carefully leveled and compacted. The next stage is backfilling with a layer of crushed stone (15-17 cm), tamping and installation of formwork, usually from low-grade boards.
A polyethylene film is placed on top, a concrete solution (15 cm) is poured on it, the reinforcement laid on top of the solution is fixed, pressed into this solution and poured with a cement solution.
Heating and cooking stove Swede
After the solution hardens, a mesh of reinforcement is placed on top, poured with a concrete solution, leveled and the hardening process begins. This will take up to a month, after which you can start laying the furnace.
Material for assembling a Swedish oven with an oven
Before starting the ordering, let me remind you of the high quality of building materials and the quantity. So we need to have:
1) red brick - 717 pieces (plus 15 in stock);
2) silicate or fireclay brick for laying the firebox - 154 pcs;
3) clay, sand, cement;
4) steel wire (0.4-0.5 cm);
5) asbestos cord and sheet;
6) corner made of steel 50-50-5-1020 - 2 pcs;
7) strips of steel for masonry above the slab;
8) grate 20-30 cm - 1 pc;
9) oven-45-36-30 cm - 1 pc;
10) firebox door 21-25 cm -1 pc;
11) valves - 3 pieces 13-25 cm;
12) cooking stove 41-71 cm -1 pc;
13) grate for a fireplace;
14) 2 metal sheets for flooring in front of the firebox.
The protrusion for the fireplace is made 15 cm in size. Before proceeding with the masonry, lay a piece of roofing material on the foundation and mark the base of the furnace on it.
Laying and ordering the Swede oven
1 row is laid very evenly and carefully, since the evenness and strength of the entire structure depends on this, it is laid from a continuous layer of bricks;
Row 2 also consists of bricks, but where there is room for a firebox, fireclay bricks are used. From above 2 rows, grill holders for the fireplace are installed by welding;
3rd row - in this row, a place is determined for a blower, an oven and a chimney, and on the other hand a place for a fireplace insert;
4 row - the same as 3, but the brick is installed "under dressing";
5 row - preparing a place for a firebox and a grate, as well as installing an oven and rewinding it with an asbestos rope;
6th row - installation of the firebox door, the walls between the firebox and the oven are laid with bricks “on edge”, in the same row the gap for the oven is closed and a vertical channel is made;
7 row - the same as 6, but metal strips are installed on top for installing the next rows of bricks;
8 row - installation of the oven;
9 row - 2 metal strips are installed above the oven for laying the top row;
10th row - preparing a place for installing the stove. The edges above the doors of the oven firebox are fastened with a corner, in the 10th row the hob and the door for cleaning the channels are installed;
Swede oven ordering
11 row - creating a niche for, bricks laid over the firebox are cut obliquely;
12-13 rows are stacked according to the scheme;
14 row - a shelf is formed for, a protrusion of bricks is made on the side and in front by 2.5 cm;
15 row - the shelf for the fireplace expands, the brick extends another 2.5 cm;
16 row - installation of floors and corners for a niche of overlap;
17-18 row according to the scheme;
19 row - the beginning of the formation of a hole for the chimney, the brick is cut off from both sides;
20 row is performed according to the scheme;
21 row - installation of the door on the cleaning channel;
22 row - installation of another door on the cleaning channel;
23 row - according to the scheme;
24 row - installation of a valve on the chimney of the fireplace;
25 row - installation of a second valve on the chimney of the fireplace;
26th row - installation of another door on the cleaning channel and connection of the vertical channel with the gas outlet channel;
27-28 rows according to the scheme;
29-30 rows - closing the upper part of the furnace;
31 row - valve installation;
32 row - laying out a chimney pipe half a brick wide, depending on the height of the furnace.
Watch a video about bake swede
Swede stoves differ from other heating and cooking stoves by the presence of a heating shield in the rear. This brick shield has a system of gas ducts: from vertical or horizontal. The smoke passing through them warms up the structure, and the rooms are already heated from it. The system turns out to be efficient and economical: the heat that went into the chimney in a traditional Russian stove is used for space heating. But both systems for constructing a shield (vertical and horizontal) have disadvantages.
With a horizontal arrangement of gas ducts, the entire shield is heated evenly. But, such a system needs a large number of cleaning holes and, accordingly, doors on them. Given that furnace casting is quite expensive today, these doors significantly affect the final cost.
With a vertical arrangement of gas ducts in a Swede, there can be one cleaning hatch. But there is another problem here: while the stove is heating, in the first channel, on the side where hot gases from the furnace enter, the shield will be noticeably hotter than in the third - at the exit. Since the shield is usually located in two rooms, one of them will be much warmer than the other.
There is also a third type of shield device: bell-shaped. It combines the advantages of both systems: one cleaning window is required, the entire surface is heated evenly, and less brick is required for construction. Moreover, with this construction, the stove cools down more slowly: the warmest air is kept in the tops of the caps for a long time, and the “draft” from the doors passes only in the center.
From all of the above, it follows that the most economical and efficient Swedes with shields built according to the bell principle. They are also easier to manage: it is possible to organize a “summer” and “winter” mode of operation, in which either only a small part of the shield (in summer) or the entire heating power is switched on: in winter. There is even a variant of a Swedish stove with three firing modes: an “autumn” mode is also added, in which a little more than half of the chimney channels participate in the smoke circulation.
Swede stove with three firing modes
Traditional options for building a Swedish oven do not provide for any modes. In this regard, especially in winter, it can be difficult to melt it: while the long chimney channel heats up, smoke can enter the room. If there is at least a "summer" mode, warming up is faster. With the valve closed (in summer mode), the Swede is also melted in winter, opening it after the working piece of the chimney warms up. During this time (five minutes from the moment of kindling), a temperature difference sufficient for normal traction is created and the entire shield can be connected to work.
Although two modes are better than one, three is even better. In case of autumn-spring weather, the Swede V. Grigoriev's stove has three firing modes, including the "autumn" one. We will lay out the order of this furnace below.
Materials and spare parts
This Swede with an oven is not very large: the order contains 30 rows (31st and 32-1 are the formation of a pipe). The dimensions of the described furnace are 1140 * 760 mm and 210 cm high (plus a pipe). For laying without taking into account the pipe you need:
- red solid kiln brick - 480 pcs;
- for laying the firebox, SHA-8 is used - refractory bricks - 129 pcs;
- oven 280*370*310 mm;
- cast iron stove with two burners 410 * 710 mm;
- grate - 250 * 300 mm;
- cast iron door for fuel loading 210*250 mm;
- blower door - 140 * 250 mm;
- door to the cleaning hole - 70 * 130 mm;
- valves:
- on the chimney, "summer" and "winter" mode - 130 * 250 mm - 3 pcs;
- "autumn" mode - 205 * 250 mm;
- steel corner - to strengthen the "hanging" rows - thickness 5 mm, size 50 * 50 mm, length 730 mm - 2 pcs.
- sheet metal strip 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide, long
- 1020 mm
- 730 mm - 2 pcs,
- 500 mm - 2 pcs;
- 320 mm - 2 pcs;
- 250 mm.
- pre-furnace steel sheet - 500 * 700 mm.
Swede oven with three modes: ordering and DIY
In the figures, the ceramic brick is brown, fireclay is indicated in yellow. There are also graphic images (see photo).
The first two rows are laid solid. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry: the angle is strictly 90 °, the diagonals are the same. rows are placed with dressing.
For laying the third row, fireclay bricks (14 + 1/2) and one red are used. The formation of the ash chamber and the compartment where the oven will be installed begins. A lower cap and a vertical channel are formed, suitable for it. The bricks that form the passage between the oven hood and the oven chamber are sawn at an angle of approximately 30-40°.
Note! Cleaning holes are left on the side walls - brick quarters are inserted into them - they protrude 100 mm beyond the walls. In the same row, the ash pan door is installed.
Fourth row - metal strips cover the ash pan door
The fourth row is similar to the previous one. With the difference that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood is made smaller - it is 180 mm. Two metal strips 320 mm long are installed above the installed ash pan door (it is not shown in the figure) (the bricks are slightly sawn so that the strips lie in the recesses and another 2-3 mm remain to the edges of the recess to compensate for thermal expansion). In order for the doors to hold well, experienced stove-makers connect these plates to the frame of the door by drilling through holes (if the casting is cast iron, this should not be done).
In the fifth row, bricks are laid on the strips - the ash pan door is closed. In the same row, a grate is laid. Bricks are also turned under it, and so that the size of the “couch” is 3-4 mm larger around the entire perimeter - for the thermal expansion of cast iron (steel).
In this and the next few rows, the masonry is completely carried out with fireclay bricks. Please note that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood has become even smaller: it is 100 mm.
The sixth row begins the formation of the firebox. Please note that two bricks at the entrance to it are cut to half (at 45 °). In the diagram, the cut bricks are marked in orange. In the same row, the passage between the hood and the oven chamber is blocked and the oven chamber itself is installed (in the following figures it will not be, so as not to overlap the pattern of bricks).
The sixth row of ordering - the formation of the firebox of the Swedish furnace
In the seventh row, the formation of the firebox continues, the door is installed.
The next three rows from the eighth to the tenth continue the formation of the fuel chamber, the oven is lined with bricks. Please note that more and more red bricks are becoming.
In the tenth row, the installed oven and the firebox door overlap. The wall between them in this row is not placed: both chambers are combined.
In the eleventh row on the left above the oven, two bricks are laid so that they protrude inward a few centimeters: the “summer” mode channel will then rely on them.
In the fireclay bricks of this row, a bed for a cast-iron hob is cut out. The dimensions of the bed are at least 5 mm larger than its dimensions to compensate for thermal expansion. The depth of cut is such that there is also a distance of at least 5 mm from the top row to the plate.
An asbestos cord is laid in the gaps around the perimeter. So that it does not clog with mortar during masonry, it can be covered with packing cardboard (it will burn out during heating).
After the cast-iron slab has been laid, its outer edge is covered with a metal corner. This is necessary so that the bricks are not damaged during operation.
In the 12th row, an area above the stove is formed - the cooking chamber. A channel is also formed in which smoke will pass during operation in the "summer" mode (to the left of the stove). So that in the future the width of the channel is exactly a brick, the edge of one of the bricks is cut obliquely.
In the 13th row, the formation of the lower cap ends: it is covered with ceramic bricks. Please note that bricks sawn along are installed there - so that there is room to lay those that form the arch of the cap. In the fourteenth row, one brick of the vertical channel (on the right) is cut obliquely. The rest - according to the ordering scheme.
In the fifteenth and sixteenth row, the first horizontal channel is formed. In the 15th, a half of a brick protrudes from the right, covering the cleaning hole for this channel.
In the 17th row, in addition to forming the channel, a metal corner is installed, and two strips 730 mm long. They will serve as a support for the vault of the cooking chamber.
In the next, 18th, row, ceramic bricks are laid on the supports, covering the vault, leaving the exit from the "summer" channel on the left. The brick at the exit from below is cut at an angle of 45 ° (indicated in gray in the diagram).
Installing the "summer" mode damper
In the nineteenth row, the masonry is carried out according to the order. Some bricks are cut to install a valve on the "summer" channel in a Swedish oven, which can operate in three modes.
In the twentieth row, we begin to display the walls of the drying cabinet above the cooking chamber. The second horizontal channel immediately begins to form and the shutter of the “autumn” operating mode of the Swede is installed. This zigzag is placed vertically (bricks are also sawn under it).
Installing the shutter of the "autumn" mode of the Swedish oven
The twenty-first row of the Swede oven order prepares the "summer" channel for overlapping in the next row. In this row, the bricks in front and behind the channel are released a quarter inward and cut obliquely from below so that there is no step. A small opening remains on the front side - for installing a cleaning door.
This door is easier to make with your own hands: it should be a frame about 70 mm deep, inside of which a metal door is fixed. So that it does not overheat, it is laid from the inside with a brick cut to size, which is placed in the door on a clay mortar.
In the twenty-second row, the right "summer" channel is divided into two. The separating brick is hemmed from below so that the bevel to the right smoke channel rises (see the figure).
In the next, 23rd row, the "summer" and the second horizontal channels overlap. The horizontal channel on the right has an outlet, the outermost brick is cut from below at an angle of 45°. On the left side, bricks are cut for the installation of the "winter" mode damper, after which this damper is installed.
In the twenty-fourth row, the walls of the small drying chamber are laid out on the left. In the existing vertical channels, the bricks are slightly cut obliquely, at an angle of 45 ° (indicated in orange in the diagram).
In the 25th row, the third horizontal channel is combined with the existing two vertical ones. On the right, a brick sticks out of the wall, blocking the cleaning hole of this channel.
In the 26th row, the formation of a horizontal channel continues, and the bricks are also undermined for the installation of a damper.
In the twenty-seventh row, the brick that is laid behind the flap is cut at an angle of 45 °. Metal strips are laid on top of the laid bricks to support the floor. A strip of 1020 mm is fixed in front, two strips of 500 mm each cover a large drying chamber, one short by 250 mm - a small drying chamber.
The next row is the 28th, covering almost all channels. Moreover, it is larger than the previous one: the bricks protrude 3 cm from all sides. In the place where the main smoke channel passes, the bricks are cut in front and behind at an angle of 45 °. The undercut is at the front at the bottom, at the back at the top (gray and orange in the ordering chart).
The 29th row is even larger: the bricks also protrude 3 cm from all sides. The bricks in the area of the smoke channel are also cut, but now it is shifted 60 mm closer to the back wall.
In the 30th row, the overlap returns to its original dimensions. The channel is laid out with cut bricks, due to which it is still displaced by another 60 mm.
Do-it-yourself Swede oven is almost finished. Next comes the laying of the chimney. The scheme of its masonry is shown in the 31st and 32nd rows. Then it rises to the required height.
We hope this order will help you fold the Swede oven with your own hands. There is an option for an even more compact shvdka: baby ovens. It is described in the video.